Every winter, hidden beneath the fallen leaves of oak and hazel trees in south-western France, lies a subtle yet powerful treasure: the black truffle of Périgord, or Tuber melanosporum. This exceptional ingredient, both a symbol of the terroir and a culinary fascination, is deeply rooted in the identity of the Périgord Pourpre.

In this article, discover the origins, cultivation, markets and culinary uses of this exquisite fungus — and how to enjoy it during a winter stay at La Petite Auberge, ideally located between Eymet and Bergerac.

🍄 What is the black truffle of Périgord? A fascinating fungus

The black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is a subterranean mycorrhizal fungus, meaning it grows in symbiosis with the roots of specific trees: primarily holm oaks, downy oaks, as well as hazels and hornbeams.

It requires very specific growing conditions:

• well-drained limestone soil
• a temperate climate alternating between heat and humidity
• a low-organic ecosystem, often undisturbed

This natural rarity, combined with its exceptional aroma (a blend of woodland, hazelnut, musk and damp earth), makes it a coveted — and expensive — product (between €800 and €1,200 per kilo, depending on the year).

🌳 Truffle tradition in the Périgord Noir

The Sainte-Alvère region, a historical truffle-producing area, lies at the western edge of the Périgord Noir. Its rolling limestone hills have long provided the ideal terrain. Until the 1960s, it was among the leading truffle-producing zones in France, as noted in the 1949 edition of the Larousse dictionary.

But truffle production began declining after World War I, with a significant drop in the 1950s due to rural exodus and the ageing of natural truffle orchards.

By the late 1960s, many abandoned properties were revived by newcomers. Scientific advances enabled a new generation of mycorrhizal saplings to produce truffles more reliably, giving rise to a fresh wave of truffle growers who combine tradition with innovation.

🌱 A demanding crop: part science, part passion

Truffle cultivation is both an art and a science. Contrary to popular belief, most truffles sold today are not “wild” but grown in cultivated orchards.

It takes 8 to 10 years from planting a mycorrhized tree to the first harvest — and even then, not every tree will yield truffles.

Harvesting, called cavage, is done with the help of trained dogs (sometimes pigs). Some growers also use the truffle fly (Suillia gigantea), which is attracted by the truffle’s scent — a traditional technique still passed down in some families.

📍 Where to find truffles near La Petite Auberge?

While the Périgord Pourpre isn’t the largest truffle-producing area (unlike northern Lot or Sorges), it does have dedicated producers, especially around Sainte-Alvère, Vergt, and in the countryside between Bergerac and Lalinde.

📊 Truffle markets near La Petite Auberge

🔺 Monday morning – Sainte-Alvère
Under the covered market hall
⏰ From 10am | 📍 Late Nov. to late Feb.
📞 +33 (0)5 53 73 55 85
🔗 www.truffe-perigord-noir.com

🔺 Monday afternoon – Vergt
Under the market hall
🕑 3pm to 5pm | 📍 December to February
📞 +33 (0)5 53 54 90 05

🔺 Saturday morning – Bergerac (occasional)
Local producers’ markets may include truffle stands.
📞 Bergerac Tourist Office: +33 (0)5 53 57 03 11

You’ll find:

• fresh whole or chopped truffles
• truffle products (butter, oils, preserves)
• and occasionally demonstrations or events, especially in Sainte-Alvère.

🍽️ How to cook with truffles: Let the product shine

A good truffle should be firm, fragrant and flavoursome. As it breathes, it absorbs oxygen and releases aromatic gases. With time, it oxidises and loses its scent — so it’s best enjoyed quickly, ideally purchased locally and in season.

Simple preparations are best to highlight its powerful aromas. Use it:

• grated raw over scrambled eggs, risotto, or fresh pasta
• infused in butter, cream, or even whole eggs in their shell
• paired with simple ingredients like potatoes, mild cheeses, or roast poultry

Truffle also pairs wonderfully with:

• celeriac
• shallots or caramelised onions
• artichokes
• avocado
• pink Jerusalem artichokes

Trap the aroma in:

• fats (butter, cream, oils)
• pastries (brioche, puff pastry, bread)
• or under poultry skin before roasting

💡 To store it a few days, place your truffle in a sealed jar with eggs or rice in the fridge. The rice absorbs moisture, and the eggs capture its aroma through the shell.

🧬 Truffle varieties in the Dordogne

Category 1 – Tuber melanosporum (Black Truffle of Périgord)
🗓 November to March
🔎 Warty brown skin with red highlights; marbled black and white flesh
👃 Scent: woodland, humus, toasted nuts
👅 Flavour: peppery, very long finish
👉 Only variety accepted as Category 1 at controlled markets in Sainte-Alvère

Category 2 – Tuber brumale
🗓 Same season and terroir as melanosporum
🔎 Blacker skin, flakes easily, coarser marbling
👃 Scent: root vegetable, sometimes garlicky or musky
👅 Flavour: very peppery
👉 Classified as Category 2 in Sainte-Alvère

Other varieties

• Tuber uncinatum (Burgundy truffle): rare in Dordogne, Sept. to Dec.
• Tuber aestivum (Summer truffle): May to Sept., milder flavour, often eaten raw

🍷 What wine to pair with truffle?

A truffle calls for a wine of equal character.
We recommend soft yet structured red wines like those from Domaine du Siorac>> (Bergerac AOC>>) or Côtes de Duras.

For a toast with truffle butter or truffled cheese, a sweet Monbazillac (from late-harvest grapes) can be a surprisingly delicious match.

🏞️ Experience truffle country: tastings, terroir & accommodation

Some producers in the Périgord Pourpre (around Sainte-Alvère or Lalinde) offer truffle orchard visits and tastings. These immersive experiences are ideal to learn about the craft and the harvest magic.

🏡 Where to stay?
Nestled between Eymet and Bergerac, La Petite Auberge is a peaceful and charming base to explore winter truffle markets, hilltop villages, vineyards, and local producers. A cosy escape to savour the season in true Périgord style.

📚 Also on our blog:

Why go on holiday in Périgord Pourpre?
Villages to visit in Périgord Pourpre: our 5 favourites
Summer Agenda Around Eymet – Festivals & Events Not to Miss
Family holidays in the Dordogne: 10 unmissable things to do near Eymet and Bergerac
What to Do in the Dordogne in September and October 2025
Walking Trails in the Périgord Pourpre: Scenic Routes & Local Tips
Welcome to La Petite Auberge – our peaceful haven in the heart of the Périgord Pourpre
A Fresh Touch at La Petite Auberge: What We’ve Upgraded for 2025